Chicago Tribune – March 21, 2004

Tricks and Treats – Moto’s Chef has Designs on Food as Artistic Visions

by Phil Vettel

The neutral-toned dining room is elegant in its black-and-tan simplicity, and deep wood tables are adorned with high-quality linen runners and matching napkins. Waiters in black lab coats handle the basics impeccably and are reliable (and necessary) guides through Cantu’s labyrinthine tastings. They can recite every dish and ingredient, explain how certain creations are meant to be eaten, and do so without the slightest hint of pretension or condescension. Dining at Moto is un intimidating (there isn’t even a dress code, though jackets and ties are common) and, dare I say it, fun. Cantu has high ambitions for his food and restaurant; he’s clearly aiming for the four-star plateau…given Cantu’s creativity and top-notch ingredients, it’s a distinct possibility.