Chicago Social – June, 2004

Dining With Dali – A Young Chef Embraces Surrealistic, Interactive Cuisine at Minimalist Moto

by J.P Anderson

“I’ve never wanted to follow the rules,” says 27-year old chef Homaro Cantu. As a youngster in Portland, the self described “troublemaker” got a kick out of starting fires, luckily, he was even more fascinated by watching his grandmother cook traditional Mexican fare like tortillas and menudo. Cantu still isn’t following the rules – but that’s because he’s making them. Formerly a sous chef at Charlie Trotter’s, this up-and-comer is the mastermind behind the wildly creative global cuisine at Moto, the West Loop’s latest foodie destination, which embraces the avant-garde with challenging flavors and unorthodox presentation. From liquefied salads served in pipettes to coiled, herb-filled utensils that Cantu himself invented, dining at Moto is a wild, theatrical ride. And for the most part, Cantu manages to pull it off, forging a uniquely creative dinning experience that can be as satisfying as it is surreal. One thing’s for sure – you’ve never eaten like this before.